Friday, May 9, 2014

I've been sewing but...

I've been sewing but don't have a lot to show for it.

I don't rate my new skirt pictured a success, but it's not a failure either. The twist design is taught has part of Anita McAdam's skirt design course.  To be honest I was playing around and may not have constructed it correctly. It is made from very cheap patterned ponte with a pull on elastic waist. 
The linen dress below is also self drafted from the block made for my daughter's formal outfit.  She came home from university for a short visit and asked for a casual dress in linen.  

She choose the linen from my stash. I should have been more forthright in telling her it was not the right weight for a dress but she wasn't interested in the other options. The muslin fitted well, but the finished dress does not. I suspect the wrinkling across the back is caused by the lining and the fusible interfacing.  I plan to add about 5mm to the hip seams in case the firm fit is pushing the fabric up. Readers' suggestions would be welcomed as my daughter loves the style.

I've finally finished my jacket block and am working on design now.  I'm also very involved in preparation for an upcoming sewcation with the Australian Sewing Guild.

To make the most of the weekend, I need to have everything cut, interfacings applied and notions put together for each garment. I'm aiming for a set of three related garments over two days.



Monday, April 21, 2014

Weekend wonder

Chambray shirt completed, pull on a pair of stretch black ponte pants, pop on the sneakers and I'm laughing.  

It has been the loveliest Easter weekend.  With youngest daughter home from university and eldest daughter's boyfriend here for a visit there hasn't been much sewing. But had the chance to finish my shirt and get three quarter of the way through a linen dress for my daughter.

Once again I've used my  go shirt pattern McCalls 6436. I'm not sure where my sewing will take me next.  I'm still refining my muslins, eldest DD has made a half-hearted request for a ball gown for the Law Ball, and I have no weekend tshirts.  Rest assured something will make me smile.

Happy sewing!

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Tribal take two

I just love this dress!  Still a few tweaks to perfect the fit and design.  

I need to resolve an annoying shoulder wrinkle, coming off the armhole. I think I need to lower the arm scythe a fraction.  I also went a little overboard tapering the sleeve for a 'fashion fit'. Could only just raise my champagne glass.  Anita is very keen on elbow darts and now I believe her!

A future version of this dress might use darts rather than panels and increase the angle of the neckline towards the centre front for more drama.

Currently I'm working on my trouser pattern and a chambray shirt.  Meanwhile, happy sewing!

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Tribalism


I couldn't wait to show off my latest self-drafted dress from my work with pattern making teacher Anita McAdam.  I bought this amazing but somewhat overwhelming tribal print fabric a few months ago  from Tessuti in Surry Hills.  It was love at first sight, but then came the obvious question "What on earth will I do with it?".  Teaming it with black was an obvious solution.  The result is a flattering, princess seamed frock that is just is little bit out there.  The body of the dress is lined to the edge, with unlined three-quarter length sleeves for trans-seasonal comfort. 
For those of you who are wondering, those tribal eyes sit well above the bust point.  I love the way the print matched along the centre back zip and seam line.  I'll be wearing it to a function in Melbourne on Sunday, so will post wearing photos.
Check out my new sewing space...courtesy of youngest daughter studying interstate.

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Splatter top

Despite best intentions I'm guilty of 'random sewing'.  

I have on my sewing table two nearly done muslins - a trouser block and a jacket block; and two dresses in various stages of completion.  I rushed to finish this simple top for my niece's engagement party and am quite happy with it.  The fabric is a polyester pretending to be silk bought an aeon ago at The Fabric Store.  The pattern is Vogue 8833, an easy to make wrap top with a long tie belt that wraps right around the waist. I made the version with the mandarin style collar. I will adjust the pattern if I make another so that I don't need the singlet underneath.  The gape factor was too much for me.  Despite this, I quite like it!  Happy sewing.


Friday, February 28, 2014

You can't win em all!

I've been intrigued by this Islander Sewing System jacket since I saw Sunni's version.

The pattern comes Janet Prey's Sew Better Sew Faster course on Craftsy.com.   This is a great course for mastering new techniques and for understanding factory sewing philosophy (faster, cheaper not necessarily better in my opinion).

I went straight to fabric because I was using a very cheap linen-like cotton from my charity fabric shop.  As a result I'm not entirely happy with the fit of garment.  I made a medium which based on the measures could have been too small. Sadly its a little too big, even for a relaxed fit.  The shoulders are the real problem which sit about 1 inch below my shoulder line.  I also think there is too much bulk in the back side panels - a flaw I've noticed in other versions, not just my own.  I'll wear it, but don't love it.  The big plus is the pattern booklet includes the best instructions for welt pockets and I'll also reuse the pocket and cuff design and methods.

I'll post a picture of it on after it has been washed - astute readers may notice my chalk lines are still visible! Next up I'm finalising my muslin for a basic jacket and trouser block - products of my lessons with my great teacher and pattern making mentor Anita McAdam. I've got some great ideas for jackets and pants which I hope to bring to fruition in the coming months.



Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Take two!

 

Some garments just put a smile on their maker's face.  I love my latest 'twin set', especially the blouse which is made from the softest cotton viscose blend.

When I purchased this paisley border print from the Fabric Store I was planning a kaftan.  However, in Italy I saw so many blouses with contrasting collars, cuffs and button panels that I saw its real potential.

The pattern is one of my go to blouse patterns McCalls 6436.  As well as being a good basic pattern with a few pocket designs, its real value lies in the A/B, C & D cup fitting options, eliminating the need for a full bust adjustment.  French seams throughout and satin Hong Kong bindings on the sleeve head add to the luxurious feel.
 
 
The skirt is another of my self-drafted pencil skirts.  I've made it up in a polyester crepe and have fully lined it.  I'm not a fan of cheap crepe for its sheen and its tendency to crease, but as the piece was bought for $3 from a charity store I'll set my fabric snobbery to one side.  My next skirt will not be a pencil skirt, having made up five from the same pattern.  If your not bored, I am!

Off to plan my next few garments while I'm on a roll. Meanwhile, happy sewing!