Chanelling Coco or Sailor Moon?

We had a long weekend for the Queens Birthday (absurd yes, she is the Queen of England and it is not even her real birthday!) but I didn't do much sewing. My DD went away with friends for the weekend so husbie expected some attention. We had a great time. Highlights were seeing the new Australian film Animal Kingdom, one of the few truly great Aussie films by a first time director and starring some of our finest actors. No Nicole Kidman wasn't in it (that's why it was so good!) and seeing the dishy Australian actor singing the songs of Jacque Brel at the Basement. It was funny returning to the Basement, which was a hang of ours in our beatnik days of the late 70s. It looked like the same crowd there, but their goatees had gone grey. The bar stools didn't feel as comfortable either. Couldn't be possible!

Anyway, all things Francophone made we think up another jolie Jalie project. I used a metre of red and white striped rugby knit that I originally bought at Tessutis to make a pair of rompers for my eldest daughter. This child is now 18, so that is serious stash busting! I added some white merino jersey scraps for the ties and a cuffed sleeve.

I thought it all looked great, until DD came home. "You look like Sailor Moon" she wailed. Oh well, at least I match my doggie Alfie.

Quebec's revenge

Picture the scene. At Jalie headquarters Montreal the head of design is briefing the pattern makers. "We av to come up with a shirt pattern zat will baffle ze English but for the smart ones that can follow our instructions will dazzle them with Francophone ingenuity and our superior pattern making".

One of the pattern makers has a moment of deep inspiration. "Mais oui I av it!" she says "We will create a collar that one must roll the entire garment through. Ze finish will be magnifique, but the making will be a challenge."

Well as you can see from this poor attempt at humour, I was challenged by Jalie 2921. I sat for an hour reading the instructions thinking that I must have misinterpreted the text and drawings. But no, you do indeed roll the garment through the stitched collar, creating a very clean line and no raw edges.

I'm very happy with the result and fit. I used a very drapey wool blend knit. My only complaint is that my tie hangs lower than on the pattern illustrations. I suspect this is a combination of not being generous enough with the seam allowances and the loose weave dragging it downward. I will definitely make another soon.

Decision time

Thank you all so much for your helpful suggestions for my leopard print. My fabric arrived from Hong Kong today and it is beautiful, but sheerer than expected. Far too light for a dress or skirt. I have decided to make a mock wrap top using Simplicity 4074. I've had this pattern for years and never used it. I will use a fuller sleeve (View D from Simplicity 2732). Unfortunately, the belt is a fabric guzzler (1.5mts) so may be forced to use a tie side instead.

My next dilemma - the belt or follow Mary Nanna's suggestion of a kaftan with the remaining fabric. I have a muslin cut for Simplicity 4528 that didn't make it on time for my Middle Eastern odyssey. The style would be perfect but I may not have quite enough fabric. Or BWOF did a very simple 4 for 1 kaftan a while back.

Meanwhile I am almost finished my Jalie tie neck knit, found the perfect buttons for my silk affair blouse and have completed few quick refashioning projects. All will be revealed next post.

Inspire me

I have three metres of this leopard print Habuti silk on its way to me. I'm thinking a shirtmaker dress and if there is any fabric left over a top, but am open to your suggestions. Help me out with references to pattern numbers.

A leopard can change its spots

I made this skirt very quickly from heavy weight knit fabrics and a self drafted pattern. I love the combination of fabrics. It is very comfortable and looks quite well with my red t-shirt (also self drafted) and short leather jacket. I particularly like the deep pockets and invisible zip on the centre back seam. I've been wearing the skirt all day, so the waistband looks a little wrinkled...oh well.

Next up, I'm making a Jalie scarf collar top 2921 in a purple knit. I also am ready to cut my Chanel jacket. My sewing guild group is doing fitting and construction workshops with Angie Zimmerman, who will be well known to readers of Australian Stitches. At last I've learned how to do a full bust adjustment. Looking at this photo you can see why I need one!

I've been having a love affair

....but not the kind you thought! With a piece of the finest silk that was gifted to me by my daughter's friend's mother. The woman in case is extremely tasteful, elegant and only wears black, white and creme clothing (usually of the expensive variety). Imagine my delight when she handed me 2 metres of gorgeous, hideously expensive silk - left over from a dress that she'd had made.

I have been working on this blouse for quite a while. Silk is not a particularly cooperative fabric and I wanted my blouse to be something special. I think I succeeded - just needs buttons to finish.

I used Simplicity 2501 a pattern that I have been keeping my eye on since I saw Eugenia's version back in September. It has separate sizing for D cups, so didn't need much adjustment. I did make two changes to the pattern and construction. Firstly, after cutting the longer ruffled sleeves, I decided I didn't like them. This left no choice but to cut away the massive sleeve head and pleat the sleeve into place at the shoulders. I really like the sleeves which look very vintage. The other change I made was to self line the flounce and to line the peplum. I did this to achieve a couture finish and to provide the extra weight needed as the fabric was very fine.

I was also able to put to use the understitching technique I learned at my first sewing guild meeting. This is such a simple thing - after clipping facing seams, open the facing out and stitch the facing and both seam allowances very close to the seam. This helps the outer fabric to roll neatly over the facing. I also did it around my peplum lining to great affect. I wish I knew the things I'm learning 20 years ago!

I promise to post a picture of me wearing the blouse when the buttons are on.

Ladies that lunch dress

I'm really not sure about this dress. It certainly doesn't have 'hanger appeal' but looks much better on, worn with a black singlet and black boots. The fabric is very light cotton with a metallic sheen and embroidered border. I'm calling it my 'ladies that lunch' dress because I can't see myself wearing it to the office, but would happily wear it with sandals or boots for a lunch or coffee outing.

I bought this fabric ages ago in Armidale NSW, and I reckon I needed my head read. It just isn't me. I originally planned to make a Burda coatdress with shirring at the waist. Unfortunately I didn't have enough fabric and was left to ponder what on earth I'd do with it.

I was immediately attracted to Burda Style 02/10 127 because it didn't have any seams to break up the embroidered border. I've shortened the sleeves and added a cuff to balance the border pattern on the hem.

While the look is fine, the fabric is way too light for collar. I haven't ironed or stitched down the join of the collar on the front, so it looks a little lumpier than it actually is. If I make this again, I would use a heavier wool crepe. I've never inserted in under arm zip - quite proud of my efforts on that score.