A leopard can change its spots

I made this skirt very quickly from heavy weight knit fabrics and a self drafted pattern. I love the combination of fabrics. It is very comfortable and looks quite well with my red t-shirt (also self drafted) and short leather jacket. I particularly like the deep pockets and invisible zip on the centre back seam. I've been wearing the skirt all day, so the waistband looks a little wrinkled...oh well.

Next up, I'm making a Jalie scarf collar top 2921 in a purple knit. I also am ready to cut my Chanel jacket. My sewing guild group is doing fitting and construction workshops with Angie Zimmerman, who will be well known to readers of Australian Stitches. At last I've learned how to do a full bust adjustment. Looking at this photo you can see why I need one!

I've been having a love affair

....but not the kind you thought! With a piece of the finest silk that was gifted to me by my daughter's friend's mother. The woman in case is extremely tasteful, elegant and only wears black, white and creme clothing (usually of the expensive variety). Imagine my delight when she handed me 2 metres of gorgeous, hideously expensive silk - left over from a dress that she'd had made.

I have been working on this blouse for quite a while. Silk is not a particularly cooperative fabric and I wanted my blouse to be something special. I think I succeeded - just needs buttons to finish.

I used Simplicity 2501 a pattern that I have been keeping my eye on since I saw Eugenia's version back in September. It has separate sizing for D cups, so didn't need much adjustment. I did make two changes to the pattern and construction. Firstly, after cutting the longer ruffled sleeves, I decided I didn't like them. This left no choice but to cut away the massive sleeve head and pleat the sleeve into place at the shoulders. I really like the sleeves which look very vintage. The other change I made was to self line the flounce and to line the peplum. I did this to achieve a couture finish and to provide the extra weight needed as the fabric was very fine.

I was also able to put to use the understitching technique I learned at my first sewing guild meeting. This is such a simple thing - after clipping facing seams, open the facing out and stitch the facing and both seam allowances very close to the seam. This helps the outer fabric to roll neatly over the facing. I also did it around my peplum lining to great affect. I wish I knew the things I'm learning 20 years ago!

I promise to post a picture of me wearing the blouse when the buttons are on.

Ladies that lunch dress

I'm really not sure about this dress. It certainly doesn't have 'hanger appeal' but looks much better on, worn with a black singlet and black boots. The fabric is very light cotton with a metallic sheen and embroidered border. I'm calling it my 'ladies that lunch' dress because I can't see myself wearing it to the office, but would happily wear it with sandals or boots for a lunch or coffee outing.

I bought this fabric ages ago in Armidale NSW, and I reckon I needed my head read. It just isn't me. I originally planned to make a Burda coatdress with shirring at the waist. Unfortunately I didn't have enough fabric and was left to ponder what on earth I'd do with it.

I was immediately attracted to Burda Style 02/10 127 because it didn't have any seams to break up the embroidered border. I've shortened the sleeves and added a cuff to balance the border pattern on the hem.

While the look is fine, the fabric is way too light for collar. I haven't ironed or stitched down the join of the collar on the front, so it looks a little lumpier than it actually is. If I make this again, I would use a heavier wool crepe. I've never inserted in under arm zip - quite proud of my efforts on that score.

Return to the machine

Last weekend was the Anzac Day long weekend, during which Australian's honour their war dead. I don't get involved in the commemorations. Like many of my generation, I'm very conflicted about it. My father was a World War 2 veteran who eschewed Anzac Day. Until his 85th birthday he refused to march or his words "participate in the glorification of war".

I used the weekend as an opportunity to sew. Anxious to get back to the machine, I decided to work on simple projects. The striped t-shirt is self drafted and is made from very good quality Mela Purdie jersey from Tessutis. I absolutely love it and wore it all weekend. The floral t-shirt is from Simplicity 4076. This pattern is highly recommended and I've made several versions of this over the years. My only gripe with this one is that jersey is very shiny and looks a little cheap - which it wasn't. While I bought it off the remnant table at Tessutis it was originally $26 a metre! I prefer it worn under a black jacket.

I have joined the Australian Sewing Guild and on Saturday participated in my first workshop on inserting lapped and invisible zips with facings. It was revelationary. We learned a technique for lapped zips which involves completing the facing first, then inserting the zip. The finish for a dress or skirt seam is very good. Our next workshops are on fitting and constructing a Chanel jacket - which excites me very much. It is also fantastic to find so many professional women there. I sat between a doctor and a lawyer, and was delighted to meet up with a professor of history who gave me my first job out of university.

I have a mountain of fabric and patterns at the moment, so am trying to work methodically through them. I have four pieces that I've made firm decisions about. All I have to decide is which to do first!

The traveller returns

I've been back at work for week after our month long trip to Israel, Jordan and Korea. The picture is taken at the Dead Sea - the mud ain't pretty but it works wonders on the skin. We looked radiant when it washed off. Rather than bore the sewers with a travelogue, I want to share 10 things I learned on the trip:

1) Never travel with a dodgy camera - We lost about 200 images due to a corrupted memory card. These included photos of embroideries and fabric art taken just for you guys!

2) Your 18 year old daughter living 12,000 kms away does not necessary welcome your visit, but will not have the courage to tell you before your arrival.

3) Even the most enthusiast 14 year old traveller has a limited tolerance of ancient ruins. After a while they become "just a bunch of old rocks".

4) Fabric art is huge in Israel. I went to several exhibitions and visited a few artists and their galleries. See the Israel Quilters Association website to see the depth of talent there.

5) Israel is changing immeasurably due to the rise of Jewish and Islamic orthodoxy. One consequence that wouldn't be immediately obvious to people who aren't obsessed with cloth is that women's clothing is not particularly decorative. Even the Palestinian women have largely given up their colourful embroidered dresses that I remember from 30 years ago for the long black coats and plain scarfs.

6) Time in the desert is good for the soul.

7) Jordans are wonderful, hospitable people who live in an amazingly beautiful country. Go there!

8) Taking a wrong turn and ending up in the West Bank in an Israeli plated car is not a pleasurable experience. Nablus is not a friendly town. It is easy to become irredeemably lost when all signposts are in Arabic only.

9) One hour is not enough time to spend in the labrynth of the Dondaemum Fabric Market in Seoul.

10) The fabric available at the market is very variable in taste and quality, but there are great pieces to be had. The buttons were the best buy, but I didn't have enough time to make the most of it.

Peacock blouse

Ok, I know I said I was done with Simplicity 2614 but when I pulled this synthetic sateen from the stash I couldn't think of anything more appropriate to do with it.

There is something to be said for working with the same pattern across a few garments. It helps to understand its strengths and weakness and to make changes with confidence.

I've included the inside-out shot to show the self lining that I created by mirroring the bodice pattern, removing the gathering at the shoulder seam. This works so much better than the facing included in the pattern. I used a combination of French seams and and bound Hong Kong seams to give the garment a luxurious finish.

I have two more casual tops cut using totally different patterns - Simplicity 3887 and 4528. Not sure if I will have time to finish either before we leave on Wednesday. Looking forward to a month's holiday in Israel, Jordan and Korea. Robin at A Little Sewing on the Side has given me the heads up on where to buy fabric and haberdashery in Seoul, so while I won't be blogging, I will be thinking about sewing!

Kaftan number 2

Ok I'm repeating myself but I'm smiling. This is my second and final 'bedouin tent' made from Simplicity 2619. I have a pair of trousers from the pattern cut out ready to go, then I will bury this pattern deep in the back of the cupboard. I've used a two-toned brown and creme piping cord which really works well with the brown and creme cotton. Overall I'd recommend this pattern if you want a quick project. It takes about two hours to complete - and that included felled seams and the piping.

I'm not sure what the next projects will be. Probably will continue with the mix of corporate and casual. I must finish the Burda purple silk top - it sits on the sewing table. If it could sing the song would be "what about me..It isn't fair..." and the new Patrones magazine is willing me to trace off a few of the best.

So ladies...watch this space!