You can't win em all!

I've been intrigued by this Islander Sewing System jacket since I saw Sunni's version.

The pattern comes Janet Prey's Sew Better Sew Faster course on Craftsy.com.   This is a great course for mastering new techniques and for understanding factory sewing philosophy (faster, cheaper not necessarily better in my opinion).

I went straight to fabric because I was using a very cheap linen-like cotton from my charity fabric shop.  As a result I'm not entirely happy with the fit of garment.  I made a medium which based on the measures could have been too small. Sadly its a little too big, even for a relaxed fit.  The shoulders are the real problem which sit about 1 inch below my shoulder line.  I also think there is too much bulk in the back side panels - a flaw I've noticed in other versions, not just my own.  I'll wear it, but don't love it.  The big plus is the pattern booklet includes the best instructions for welt pockets and I'll also reuse the pocket and cuff design and methods.

I'll post a picture of it on after it has been washed - astute readers may notice my chalk lines are still visible! Next up I'm finalising my muslin for a basic jacket and trouser block - products of my lessons with my great teacher and pattern making mentor Anita McAdam. I've got some great ideas for jackets and pants which I hope to bring to fruition in the coming months.

Take two!

 

Some garments just put a smile on their maker's face.  I love my latest 'twin set', especially the blouse which is made from the softest cotton viscose blend.

When I purchased this paisley border print from the Fabric Store I was planning a kaftan.  However, in Italy I saw so many blouses with contrasting collars, cuffs and button panels that I saw its real potential.

The pattern is one of my go to blouse patterns McCalls 6436.  As well as being a good basic pattern with a few pocket designs, its real value lies in the A/B, C & D cup fitting options, eliminating the need for a full bust adjustment.  French seams throughout and satin Hong Kong bindings on the sleeve head add to the luxurious feel.

 

 
The skirt is another of my self-drafted pencil skirts.  I've made it up in a polyester crepe and have fully lined it.  I'm not a fan of cheap crepe for its sheen and its tendency to crease, but as the piece was bought for $3 from a charity store I'll set my fabric snobbery to one side.  My next skirt will not be a pencil skirt, having made up five from the same pattern.  If your not bored, I am!

Off to plan my next few garments while I'm on a roll. Meanwhile, happy sewing!

I'm back

Happy 2014 sewers! I'm finally back to routine after three and half wonderful weeks in Italy and grappling with the intricacies of enrolling my two daughters into their respective university courses while they were overseas.  Life has been extra complicated as one daughter is moving to residential college in Melbourne and the eldest back to Sydney from Melbourne.

If you will allow me a moment of non-sewing parental pride, I was pleased to need to do this organising as both had won places in the top schools in Australia for their respective courses- one for post-graduate Law and the other for undergraduate Architecture.

On fabric shopping in Italy 
I visited stores in Rome - they are located in the area around Largo Argentina and purchased six pieces of fabric in total - two silks, a silk blend, an interesting patterned cotton blend for shirting, some beautiful camel cashmere and a heavy Fair Isle patterned knit in grey and cream.  Let me tell you fabric shopping in Italy is expensive - and I  should publically acknowledge that Collette from Tessuti is not marking up the price of her collection of Italian fabrics. They really do cost that much (retail).  The other observation I make is that the stores are vast and the fabrics not well displayed.  You need time to take the fabrics off the shelves for a closer look.  I was disappointed not to find Ponte at a cheaper price than I can buy here in Sydney. 

Sewing plans for 2014 
At the beginning of 2013, I published an embarrassingly large sewing bucket list.  It was a difficult year - a child in final year of school, Mother passed away, and work  consumed much of my time.  As a result I sewed much less than I planned.  So this year I'm shying away from lists,  focussing instead on shopping my extensive (that's actually a synonym for 'ridiculous') fabric and pattern stash.  Two at time is my new mantra - a skirt and top, a dress and jacket, pants and a top. You get the idea.  I'm also trying to build my pattern making skills and overcome my sewing bogies  - jacket linings and welt pockets.

I'm off to a good start, with two completed sets.  This post covers my self-drafted pencil skirt and matching knit polo shirt Burda January 2009 No 125.  Both fabrics are from Tessutis.  I cut the t-shirt out over two years ago but never sewed it - how did that happen?  The skirt is from a one metre remnant of chino stretch cotton and I love the fabric.  It's been very hot in Sydney so I created a zip guard, but didn't include my usual lining.   I had intended to cut the fabric differently with a centrally placed upward V-shape, but with only one metre to play with and a complicated pattern to match, this wasn't possible. C'est la vie!

I'm not in love with polo shirt.  The pattern is fine, the fit is comfortable, but I'm not thrilled with style when all the buttons are done up. 

Until next time, happy sewing!

More dressing up

It was my husband who suggested a little black dress for my daughter's farewell to school cocktail party.  I am so glad he did as I felt very elegant and it provided the perfect showcase for the black wool damask I bought in Barcelona a few years back.

I used Simplicity 2648 as my base but made some changes to the neckline by deepening the front and inserting a V-shape at the back.

I wish I could claim it as my own, but I did not make my daughter's stunning off shoulder kaftan.  It is from Australian designer and old girl from her school Camilla Franks. 

Having made both her Valedictory dinner and formal outfits I felt I owed her a ready to wear piece that was unique and worthy of my hard earned cash.

I love the lining of my dress, which is black at the top and a satin animal print for the skirt.  My edgy little secret.

I've been taking drafting classes with Anita McAdam from Studio Faro.  The dress below is a sneak peak of my first attempt from my basic dress block.  After I ran this up, Anita  helped me make a few tweaks to perfect the block.

I hope to finish this and a few travel essentials before I head off to Italy in mid December.  Via tessuti!  If I don't have time to blog before departure, I'll be back in late January with tales of ancient cities, wine, fabric, leather goods and shoes.  Meanwhile happy holidays and happy sewing. 

How to break your mother's heart

I must admit that I was surprised when my darling DD chose sequins for her formal.  She is not a  girlie girl, very pragmatic about clothes and from next year will commence studies for a career that requires hob nailed boots rather than heels.

I should have offered caution about the bling factor.  When she started to make comments that she felt the sequined top was too much, I thought that she would come around eventually. But she persisted and stubbornly taking piece of black silk from my stash, threatening to wear it unsewn, wrapped around her.

I've got to admit, I admired her creativity and tenacity, but couldn't allow the inevitable wardrobe malfunction.  So two nights before the event, I stopped crying over my couture work and gave in.

I cut the same design in the black silk. The workmanship is sloppy and it breaks my perfectionist heart. But my DD is happy and confident.  After all it was her night!

I wore a new silk Satuki from Victory patterns to the pre-party.  It is a great pattern and the perfect party frock for Sydney summer.  I'd already worn it to a cocktail party the week before but don't have any proper photos yet.  Highly recommend the pattern if you need to whip up a quick dress.  My fabric width was narrow so made the flounce as a separate piece.  This works very well.  As you can see from our smiles, I am speaking to my daughter again, who promises to wear the top to a party soon.

 

 

 

by blingo!

 The top half of the bling 'dress' is completed (except for a closure at the back of the neck) and mother and daughter are very happy with our progress.  There is something so luxurious about the quality of outer fabric - randomly shattered sequins on a double layer of deep grey silk georgette.  The bottom half is made in sheer silk organza, to avoid bulk when tucking the top into the skirt and to create a different look if worn out over jeans.  The lining is grey silk.

I've included a lot of couture finishes on the inside including handpicked under-stitching of the lining and the hem on the organza skirt also has been hand finished.  Thanks for the advice about providing extra support for the neck band.  I ended up using horsehair lining and using tiny tailoring tacks to hold in place.  The layers of thickness resisted turning so only the top and ends were machined and bottom held together with tiny slip stitches.

I've removed all the sequins from the seam allowances - hundreds of sequins coming off with my snip scissors.  Four more long skirt lengths to go...and I'm almost crazy.  There is a lot of love in this outfit!

The bling dress taking shape

 A completed muslin, a happy teen...and a secretly relieved mother.  With Anita's help my drafted pattern needs very little adjustment. I will take 1 centimetre from the underarm seams.  I also had an issue with constructing the neckband which is proved too narrow to turn while it was attached to the centre front.  Just love the bra straps which won't feature on the evening...

It is still inside out in this picture.   My  plan is to sew the outside edges, clipping where it joins the front, machine the front seam, then hand stitch the facing in place.  Does anyone have a better idea?    I will use stretch interfacing on all of the outside edges of the top and skirt split to avoid stretching or sagging that might cause 'wardrobe malfunction'.

 

This weekend is a long weekend in Sydney, a great window to commence construction. I'm excited, are you?