Black linen nirvana

I blame it on the cherry blossoms.  One look at the lovely splay of pink and I'd packed away my wool stash and reached for linen.  A whole spring wardrobe plan has been going around like a duloop inside my head.  Lovely linens and silks that have been waiting in the cupboard for just this moment turning into pants, tops, jackets and dresses.   But I must not get ahead of myself. 
I have been searching for the perfect pants pattern for years, but never achieved a fit that was flattering, wearable, and super comfortable.  So I decided to look closer to home.  Kenneth King's Jeanius course on Craftsy.com inspired me to look at pants in the cupboard that fit and feel great.  I can't tell you how pleased I am with my new black linen pants, self-drafted from a well worn pair of grey slacks.  The linen is top drawer, thickly woven Italian - found at a dressmakers fire sale in Brisbane. I love the way they hang.  I've bound the waistband and fly seam with some snakeskin print ribbon, but the majority of the seams are overlocked.  The only thing between these pants and nirvana is the absence of pockets. Next pair...or pairs.  I have some white linen, which I will line and some beautiful grey wool bought on the Goldhawk Road in London.  Happy sewing...I know I am.

Slow sewing

Slow sewing, like slow cooking can yield great results.  And that's exactly what I've been up to...and I confess obsessive Olympic watching.  My camel cashmere coat is the first of the projects I've had on the simmer.  I wanted a soft cut jacket that could double for work or play.  I also wanted to use my remnant piece of camel cashmere bought a few years ago before the moths attacked it.

For this project I used Vogue 8756.   I don't recommend this pattern for anything heavier than a light knit, in fact I'm hesitant to recommend this pattern at all.  I cut a size 14 with a 3cm full bust adjustment.  Part of my slow sewing effort was to steam and mould the fabric into shape, starting with the shoulders which needed a shoulder pad and a bamboo sleeve head to look anything like the design drawing.  I chopped 5cms from each side of the drape collar piece to stop the jacket from looking too front heavy. After a lot of steaming, the folds sit quite nicely, much better than they appear in the photo.

The real winner is the fabric.  The fibres are long and soft, very luxurious to wear and a dream to sew.  The colour is camel not orange, much closer to the second photo.  My photographer, DD aged 16 and into special effects thought  "like it would look nicer and no I don't have time to another photo''.

My other slow burner is a red sheaf dress - my practice run for Susan Khalje's couture dress over at Craftsy.com.  I highly recommend this course, there are so many tips and techniques to take your sewing to new levels.  I've learned how to make a muslin correctly, how to apply organza underlining, hand picking zips and one little thing that I'll share - did you know that the top metal tab on your tape measure is equal to a standard seam allowance?  This fact is a prize for Burda magazine sewers.  The dress will stay simmering away while I catch up with the course video.

Meanwhile, I've cut a pair of plain black linen pants with a fly front.  Despite a cold, cold weekend, there is a whiff of Spring in the air.  I saw the first cherry blossoms yesterday.

Happy sewing!

Been a hell of a month but everything is coming up roses

This trench jacket (Burda 4/2008 107) is indicative of the frustrations of June.  I'd successfully made a summer trench dress from this pattern and started my 'winter safari' last winter but didn't make it past the finish line.  I pulled it out again determined to get it done, but no matter how many tricks I played I couldn't make the sleeves (frankenfurted from another Burda pattern).  By good fortune, I found an old black wool cardigan that the moths had found before me and voila, perfectly fitted sleeves that bring my garment into 2012.

It is not finished, as I need to cut the lining and have some self covered buttons made.  I did make the belt from a kit from Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch which I am really pleased with.  June brought other frustrations included having my house broken into, but I wont dwell on these sewing stifflers.

On the plus side of the ledger.

1) my sewing student finally finished her two garments, this skirt pictured and an overly ambitious dress project Burda 01/2011 103.  The latter took literally months to complete with too much assistance for learning.  I've sent her off to complete the hems and buttons on her own. Pictures? Perhaps next century...

 2) I've completed two quick projects:
An Alice and Olivia draped t-shirt Vogue 1261.  I can tell my readers that this pattern is not well suited to prints.  My roses on the centre seam came together so oddly that I added a flounce to cover my tracks.  I'm not in love with it, but wearing it in Spring over white linen trousers and silver jewellery might change my mind.

My second project was a resounding success, a Katherine Tilton t-shirt Vogue 8817.  Looks better on but the photographers are missing in action.  I especially like the ragged edge neckbinding which was from the fabric selvage.

3) I've started Susan Khalji's Couture Dress course at Craftsy and can't recommend it highly enough.  Still working on my muslin - a revelation in itself and will keep you posted.

Happy sewing!

Sometimes I want to look prim

Sometimes I want to mix it up!  I just love my new Butterick 5566 skirts.

Now I know this Italian ponte panel print from Tessuti will not be to everyone's taste, but I couldn't resist its playfulness.  I cut my skirt rather meanly to preserve the orange 'high rise buildings' section of the panel.

Both skirts feature bright orange poly linings, invisible zips.  The only thing I'd do differently is not use a stretch interfacing on the waist facing.  I think a slightly weightier interfacing might have stopped that slightly stretchy feeling you get at the end of a long day at the office.

I have a long list of winter sewing ahead of me.  Next up - two finishing off jobs - a faux leather mini skirt for my DD and my "Corporate Should Never Be Boring"leopard print trench jacket. 

Happy sewing...

Drum roll please...

Thanks for all the nice comments on the Beignet.  Based on my random number generator the lucky winner of the Collette Beignet skirt pattern is OzViking.  Please use my email address to send through your postal details.

A wet weekend is forecast.  While everyone around is feeling down about it, the little sewing fairy is struggling to contain her glee!

Beignet giveaway

 I finished this skirt a while back, but haven't had a chance to photograph it. I've rattled my chain about Collette Patterns before, so I won't go on. The Beignet is a clever design -a high waisted skirt with six panels, lined, 12 buttons and inseam pockets-and creates a flattering skirt.  But, and it is a big but, the initial fitting problems are immense.  I cut acres off my seam allowances and this complicatd completion of the lining panels. I'm pleased with finished product but I don't think I'll make another.

 

I had planned to return the pattern to Becky from whom I won the pattern gift voucher that purchased my selection of Collette patterns.  Becky has since purchased her own, so as a mini give away is in order.

If you would like to put your name in the hat, simply make a comment and follow the site.

My sewing has been rather slow of late. 
Blame work, blame school functions and just plain laziness!
I've made two skirts with my new favourite skirt pattern Butterick 5566 that can be worn with my recently completed jacket.  One is in the same tan ponte uses View D and other in a beautiful printed ponte uses View B.  Both skirts are sans lining at present, but I am ashamed to say that I've worn the first one twice already.  High on the weekend agenda.

Happy sewing!

An insider's view

 

 I don't have much time for blog posts lately.  But a promise is a promise and I wanted to show off the inside view of my latest Ponte jacket.  Really there must be at least 5 metres of seam binding in this garment and I not regret a centimetre of it.  What isn't bound has French seams, not a finish I'd recommend for Ponte but it worked well enough on the sleeves and shoulders.

I've also included a photo of my nearly finished Beignet skirt.  Now here I have a confession to make.  I recut the panel with the bound buttonholes that were utterly awful.  Tonight I put together 10 self covered buttons.  I now need to make the six belt loops, attach them and sew 10 button holes.  Ah easy!!  I will donate this pattern back to the lovely Becky whose gifted me a Collette gift voucher.  Becky, I really do love my skirt but there is only Beignet in me!

Next up, I am finishing a leopard print trench that I started before I went to Europe; and will be cutting out some more workwear.