Thursday, February 25, 2010

My D cup runneth over

Mini-me did not want to take my photo...better things to do...I am snarling at her to hold the camera up...not waist high tilting up ...this angle is flattering to 14 year olds on Facebook but certainly not for a D cup 50 year old! Sadly as a result of our little altercation my face doesn't look as great as this blouse.

This is my second blouse from Simplicity 2614. It is from a beautiful silk remnant that I've had in the stash for two years. I made some piping in cream dupont silk for the shoulder seam only and did not bother with the tie. For this version I followed the pattern directions cutting the back and the lower front on the bias and the front bodice on the straight grain. Having done the blouse both ways I prefer the fit and feel of the garment cut on the straight grain. The only thing I don't like about it is the neck facing. It could sit a little better, so I think I'll replace it with black satin bias tape on the weekend. If I do another one in a 'slippery' fabric I would self-face it by creating a double layered bodice.

I went to the Remnant Warehouse on the weekend and bought some great pieces of fabric for a total of $44. My loot included a 1.5 metres of brown and white cotton, matching piping, 3 metre piece of wool mix boucle, a 5 metre roll of red suiting, 2 metres of charcoal grey wool, 3 metres of navy blue cotton sateen and a lovely 2.5 metre piece of navy and red chiffon. I felt greedy but there was so much good stuff I was like a kid in a candy store. Suddenly I have an enormous stash - something I am not particularly approving of. The guilt will keep me on my minimum one garment a week sewing regime.

And then to my delight my newsagent now stocks Patrones!!! Issue no.286 is filled with inspiring designs for blouses and coats so I will certainly put it to good use. Next one is available on March 13.

My next project is another kaftan in the cotton, then I'll think about doing something different before I bore you all.


Saturday, February 13, 2010

Bedouin tents


Ok I know I am meant to be concentrating on my corporate wardrobe, but the white cotton was still on the machine and the overlocker. So I worked on my 'other mission'. I'm travelling to Israel and Jordan in late March to visit my daughter and return to the land where I met my husband 30 years ago! As we will be spending most of our time in Jerusalem, the Sinai and in the Wadi Rum region of Jordan I need some light, modest garments that are respectful of both my ultra-orthodox co-religionists and of Bedouin culture.
This blouse could be mistaken for a Bedouin tent, but for the fabric-the softest Swiss voile. Voile is too see through for modesty, so I will need to pop a cami underneath. It is perfect for the humid, hot Sydney summer. I used Simplicity 2619 a borderline hideous pattern, but super quick and easy. I changed the sleeves by gathering in the sleeve (without adjustment) and adding a small band. I plan to make at least one more of these and am making the trousers in khaki cotton. Suggestions for another kaftan pattern would be welcomed.
Tonight I'm cutting out some more corporate blouses. I'm concerned that my look is a little dull and want more edgy garments like the red, crumpled jacket. I often receive complements on this one. So look out for more interest in the fabrics.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

In praise of D cup patterns

I'm feeling rather guilty for not blogging, but frankly I haven't have much time for myself of late. I've completed two blouses in the last week. One I love, the other is lets say a 'work in progress'. I have another stalled blouse and about five more in my head.

Let's start on a promising note. I love my black and white striped cotton blouse. I used Simplicity 2614 which includes separate pattern pieces for A, B, C & D cup sizes. I cut a size 14 D cup and achieve a perfect fit without any adjustments. If you are currently doing FBAs on garments, support Simplicity and McCalls by buying these patterns. Hopefully they'll realise how viable the market for this product is.

The pattern calls for the back and lower front to be cut on the bias and the upper front cut on the straight grain. Working with vertical stripes I reversed this plan, cutting only the tie and the upper front on the bias. I also added black satin piping at the shoulder seam and on the cuff band. I love the fact that this blouse has no buttons or zips to contend with. I completed the whole garment in about two hours once it was cut. Matching the stripes and working out the correct angles was a bit tricky. The only change I will make to this pattern for future versions is to add 0.5cms to the sleeve band which is slightly tight around the 'tuckshop lady arms'. The skirt I'm wearing is my Vogue skirt I made last year and have worn and worn and worn.

They say every corporate wardrobe needs a crisp white blouse. Hence, my second completed blouse - the BWOF July 07, 106. I used white stretch cotton sateen - which gives a nice crisp look but is a little too heavy for a collared blouse. Initially I left off the front tie but it looked so plain and frumpy that I unpicked and inserted them. I actually pulled this out of the wash basket to photograph for the blog-it does look a little bit nicer than this photo presents. If I make this blouse again, I will take it in a little more, bring up the line of shoulder and change the sleeves. A lighter fabric is also a must.

Meanwhile my other BWOF silk blouse is cut, half sewn and sits on the sewing table. I blame KBenco for blogging about how unflattering the positioning of the gathering is on the blouse. She has me thinking...what to do.

And finally before I hit the sack...It is my blog's first birthday. I have completed about 26 garments including a fabulous formal gown. Of the garments I've made for myself, I wear about half of them regularly, a few irregularly and I've put some of my earliest work back into the sewing room for remaking.

Goodnight...and thanks for all your support and cameraderie. You've kept me sewing.

And look out for more blouses. I need about 10 corporate blouses as I have none...well two now!









Monday, January 25, 2010

Why are these kids so happy?

Because they are leaving their parents for a whole year travelling to the other side of the world to train as youth leaders. My DD is the one with the biggest smile in the middle.

I am so proud of her. She did very well in her final year at school and achieved a place in one the top Universities here. She will study Media and Communications combined with Law or Global Studies (she can't decide) when she returns.

Between getting her on the plane and starting my new job I haven't done much sewing. I have cut my blouses and hope to finish two by the end of the week.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Slow progress


Thank you for positive comments about the dress. I am planning to wear it next week, towards the end of the week.
Slowly continuing my quest to build my corporate wardrobe which for the sake of convenience has included a few non-extravagant store bought sale items. My best bargain was two pencil skirts including belts in black and beige for $14.95 each. I couldn't made them for that.
Last night I traced patterns for some serious blouse making on the weekend. I'm using BWOF March 2009 blouse 109, pictured as made and BWOF July 2007 106 from the technical drawing. There are three versions of this blouse which has a yoked back and comes with or without collar and front ties. If the fit and look is right I'll probably do all three versions.
First priorities are to do the overblouse in left over silk from the underlining of DD's formal dress (a rich auburgine/purple) and a plain cream cotton blouse sans collar. I also have some mustard silk and a red and white print in the stash suitable for blouses.

Monday, January 11, 2010

It'swonderful, smarvellous

I love 2010! The summer is gorgeous, the air is filled with the sweet scent of muraya, the beach is close and the water warm. I've just had two weeks of doing not much at all.
Today I've hung up my consultancy shingle after 6 years running my own business and started a new executive role in the city. I'm sure the glow of summer will fade as quickly as my fake tan, but today I'm excited.
One of the upsides (and downsides) of a work from home consultancy is that you often find yourself working in your pyjamas at midday or at midnight. I have very few corporate clothes because I wore the same few suits (black and boring) to all my meetings.
Pyjamas won't pass muster at the new workplace so I am now focussing my sewing on 'corporate wardrobe builders'.
My first effort is BWOF March 09/111 a jacket which I felt so comfortable wearing today. For a summer jacket I didn't both with the lining and used a combination of Hong Kong and felled seams. I included self covered shoulder pads. It is made from a crushed polyester normally used for parkas. Perhaps not the best fabric for an unlined jacket worn in the Sydney summer, but it has a nice relaxed feel while still looking 'managerial'. I wore it with a khaki coloured jersey singlet and drill cotton khaki skirt. Note that I am strongly resisting a return to my old corporate uniform of black suits with white blouses.
Which is a good seque into my next completed item, a hybrid of BWOF May 09 dress 125 and 126. Husband suggests that I should "strongly reconsider" wearing this to the office. He doesn't like the fabric. Personally, I rather like it. It fits very well and feels comfortable. My eldest DD whose fashion opinions I trust is away, so what do you think? Should I? Be honest, I will not be offended.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Beat the heat dress

Thank you all for your lovely comments on the formal dress.

Now I'm back I'm trying to put together some summer and corporate clothes for me.

I made this dress very quickly as a trial run for Simplicity 2622 using very cheap $1 a metre fabric from the stash. The fit is fine, but this style is not recommended for anyone over a B cup. Having the bodice cut off cut below the bust point and drop straight is "stoutening" (a lovely word found in my 1950s dressmaking instruction book). Definitely just a house frock. But I do like the lace insert on the hem - I'll do this again when I find the right sundress pattern.

If anyone would like to swap this uncut project runway pattern for another uncut dress or blouse pattern contact me.