I'm crushed

Made this Kay Unger design dress Vogue 1241 for a Melbourne Cup luncheon and I have to say I'm crushed  - literally and figurately speaking.  The combination of teal linen and black stretch lace is a definite winner, but the plain linen at the front is not that practical for a sit down occasion.  I look rumpled and please don't mention the barely modest neckline (the safety pin on the lining shot says it all). To be honest, I don't know how this happened.  I followed the rules, made the muslin, did the full bust adjustment, but obviously didn't take into account the seam allowances at centre front.  I do love the back, my new swayback adjustment worked well.

 

The Unger dress is interesting and clever from a construction point of view. If you are making this dress be sure to follow the instructions carefully or you won't be able to attach the lining. 

 

My other new dress is a knit maxi from some lovely jersey from Tessutis. I used Simplicity 2217 Amazing Fit dress as a base.  The main change I made was to fully line the bodice rather than use facings (I hate facings and always avoid them when I can!).  The skirt is not from the pattern, but a simple wrapped tube style.  I really like this for casual summer parties.

 

Next?  I'd love to sew my Issey Miyake Vogue 1309 in time for a party this Friday night, but somehow I think that is even less likely than winning the $100 million in Ozlotto tonight.  Meanwhile happy sewing.

Olé!

 

Been such a while since we've chatted and there is much to report.  After the little white dress I have been a veritable trouser factory churning out pants from the pattern I perfected in black linen.  I now have a white linen pair, including the front pockets so sadly missing from the black pair and the lovely grey wool pair pictured below.  This pair is fully lined and will be perfect when winter returns to Sydney town.  The fabric was purchased on my visit to the Goldhawk Road in London and I am so happy with the way they turned out.  I'll photograph the white pair when I finish a new blouse to wear with them.



After my trip to Spain I'm besotted by flamenco, so couldn't believe my eyes when I found this gorgeous cloth from the Australia designers Easton Pearson.  Thought for a long time that it was worthy of more than a skirt, but in the end, it seemed so obvious I went ahead.  I used New Look 0605 view D.  The pattern appears to be out of print, a shame as it includes a terrific, softly gathered faux wrap skirt in the options.  I overjoyed to discover that my fabulous flamenco perfectly matched 3 metres of Italian cotton shirting bought at a closing sale and sitting in my stash with no particular purpose.  Serendipity (the accidental discovery of something pleasant, valuable, or useful)!

My top is Vogue 8657 - a fabric hungry (the whole garment is self lined) but otherwise perfect pattern.  I cut a size 16 with a small FBA.  I'll definitely make this again, in a more drapey fabric.

Overall I love the outfit.  What to wear for business in a hot climate? Don't get me started.  This year I'm opting for this style of unstructured suits...so watch this space.

I was also inspired by Melbourne blogger Rachel to start my own balcony garden.  I have an unused sunny balcony 5 x 3 metres - a shameful waste of space.  I've planted spinach, lettuces, tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, and a variety of herbs.  This photo was taken on the day of planting and I'm delighted to tell you that my tomatoes are pregnant and blooming.  All plants are doubled in size and the herbs have been harvested for variety recipes. 

So happy sewing ...and yeh to pregnant tomatoes.





A little white magic

Snippets of a conversation at my place that started about three weeks ago...

DD2:  Mum I'm so excited, I've been invited to [insert name of posh Sydney boy's school] social.
Mum: That's lovely darling, you'll be able to wear your black dress again.
DD2:  But I've worn that twice already.  Everyone is getting new dresses.

One week later at the store...
Mum:  $450, no way
            This one is lovely [pointing to something pink and dainty]
DD2:   Silent [rolling her eyes].  I really like this one.
Mum:  No way, I can't buy a dress that has raw edges and is see through!  I'll make a dress.  It is so simple, I can easily copy it.
DD2:  Why can't I have a new dress.
Mum:  But the dress I make will be new

Three days later at the fabric store...
DD2:  Don't expect me to be enthusiastic about anything you show me.
Mum:  [private thoughts] Spoiled brat, where did you get this sense of entitlement.

A few days later...
DD2:  You're going to Melbourne...on business...for three days...but what about my dress?
Mum: [private thoughts] I'm an idiot, why didn't I give in to her.

Two nights to go...
DD2:  Are you ever going to finish my dress
Mum:  Of course I will, have I ever let you down [private thoughts] maybe I'll have to do an all nighter.

The night of the party...
DD2's friend:  I lOVE your dress.  Where did you get it?
DD2:  My Mum made it.
friend:  Your Mum is amazing!

Amazing?..I'm not so sure, but certainly capable of a little white magic!  DD's dress is a copy of a dress by Australian designers Maurie and Eve  that was selling for $250.  While pretty, the original had poorly finished seams and was completely unlined - requiring a slip or the audacity to go out looking like a hooker.  This version is in white crinkle chiffon, lined with white silk.  It isn't perfect, in my near midnight delirium I made the skirt a little tighter than I wanted and it rides up.  But it made my DD2 happy and that is what being a mother is all about.

Black linen nirvana

I blame it on the cherry blossoms.  One look at the lovely splay of pink and I'd packed away my wool stash and reached for linen.  A whole spring wardrobe plan has been going around like a duloop inside my head.  Lovely linens and silks that have been waiting in the cupboard for just this moment turning into pants, tops, jackets and dresses.   But I must not get ahead of myself. 
I have been searching for the perfect pants pattern for years, but never achieved a fit that was flattering, wearable, and super comfortable.  So I decided to look closer to home.  Kenneth King's Jeanius course on Craftsy.com inspired me to look at pants in the cupboard that fit and feel great.  I can't tell you how pleased I am with my new black linen pants, self-drafted from a well worn pair of grey slacks.  The linen is top drawer, thickly woven Italian - found at a dressmakers fire sale in Brisbane. I love the way they hang.  I've bound the waistband and fly seam with some snakeskin print ribbon, but the majority of the seams are overlocked.  The only thing between these pants and nirvana is the absence of pockets. Next pair...or pairs.  I have some white linen, which I will line and some beautiful grey wool bought on the Goldhawk Road in London.  Happy sewing...I know I am.

Slow sewing

Slow sewing, like slow cooking can yield great results.  And that's exactly what I've been up to...and I confess obsessive Olympic watching.  My camel cashmere coat is the first of the projects I've had on the simmer.  I wanted a soft cut jacket that could double for work or play.  I also wanted to use my remnant piece of camel cashmere bought a few years ago before the moths attacked it.

For this project I used Vogue 8756.   I don't recommend this pattern for anything heavier than a light knit, in fact I'm hesitant to recommend this pattern at all.  I cut a size 14 with a 3cm full bust adjustment.  Part of my slow sewing effort was to steam and mould the fabric into shape, starting with the shoulders which needed a shoulder pad and a bamboo sleeve head to look anything like the design drawing.  I chopped 5cms from each side of the drape collar piece to stop the jacket from looking too front heavy. After a lot of steaming, the folds sit quite nicely, much better than they appear in the photo.

The real winner is the fabric.  The fibres are long and soft, very luxurious to wear and a dream to sew.  The colour is camel not orange, much closer to the second photo.  My photographer, DD aged 16 and into special effects thought  "like it would look nicer and no I don't have time to another photo''.

My other slow burner is a red sheaf dress - my practice run for Susan Khalje's couture dress over at Craftsy.com.  I highly recommend this course, there are so many tips and techniques to take your sewing to new levels.  I've learned how to make a muslin correctly, how to apply organza underlining, hand picking zips and one little thing that I'll share - did you know that the top metal tab on your tape measure is equal to a standard seam allowance?  This fact is a prize for Burda magazine sewers.  The dress will stay simmering away while I catch up with the course video.

Meanwhile, I've cut a pair of plain black linen pants with a fly front.  Despite a cold, cold weekend, there is a whiff of Spring in the air.  I saw the first cherry blossoms yesterday.

Happy sewing!

Been a hell of a month but everything is coming up roses

This trench jacket (Burda 4/2008 107) is indicative of the frustrations of June.  I'd successfully made a summer trench dress from this pattern and started my 'winter safari' last winter but didn't make it past the finish line.  I pulled it out again determined to get it done, but no matter how many tricks I played I couldn't make the sleeves (frankenfurted from another Burda pattern).  By good fortune, I found an old black wool cardigan that the moths had found before me and voila, perfectly fitted sleeves that bring my garment into 2012.

It is not finished, as I need to cut the lining and have some self covered buttons made.  I did make the belt from a kit from Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch which I am really pleased with.  June brought other frustrations included having my house broken into, but I wont dwell on these sewing stifflers.

On the plus side of the ledger.

1) my sewing student finally finished her two garments, this skirt pictured and an overly ambitious dress project Burda 01/2011 103.  The latter took literally months to complete with too much assistance for learning.  I've sent her off to complete the hems and buttons on her own. Pictures? Perhaps next century...

 2) I've completed two quick projects:
An Alice and Olivia draped t-shirt Vogue 1261.  I can tell my readers that this pattern is not well suited to prints.  My roses on the centre seam came together so oddly that I added a flounce to cover my tracks.  I'm not in love with it, but wearing it in Spring over white linen trousers and silver jewellery might change my mind.

My second project was a resounding success, a Katherine Tilton t-shirt Vogue 8817.  Looks better on but the photographers are missing in action.  I especially like the ragged edge neckbinding which was from the fabric selvage.

3) I've started Susan Khalji's Couture Dress course at Craftsy and can't recommend it highly enough.  Still working on my muslin - a revelation in itself and will keep you posted.

Happy sewing!

Sometimes I want to look prim

Sometimes I want to mix it up!  I just love my new Butterick 5566 skirts.

Now I know this Italian ponte panel print from Tessuti will not be to everyone's taste, but I couldn't resist its playfulness.  I cut my skirt rather meanly to preserve the orange 'high rise buildings' section of the panel.

Both skirts feature bright orange poly linings, invisible zips.  The only thing I'd do differently is not use a stretch interfacing on the waist facing.  I think a slightly weightier interfacing might have stopped that slightly stretchy feeling you get at the end of a long day at the office.

I have a long list of winter sewing ahead of me.  Next up - two finishing off jobs - a faux leather mini skirt for my DD and my "Corporate Should Never Be Boring"leopard print trench jacket. 

Happy sewing...