Frocktober off to a good start

October is a month of dress-making for me - literally making dresses.  I've started the spring season with my version of the Vena Cava dress Vogue 1258.  I've used a very soft, drapey knit jersey - a rare quality find from Spotlight. A little too drapey on reflection as the weight of the front ties drags the neckline to dangerous depths.

There are a few things to remember if you are making this dress.
1) read the instructions
2) read the instructions and
3) read the instructions!

Seriously, this pattern is a pleasure to sew and cleverly crafted, but it is not an 'intuitive' pattern.  You need to follow the map or you will veer off the road very quickly.  The other thing to remember is that the neckline from the pattern is very very low. It isn't too much of a problem to adjust.  On advice from Alison who made the dress before me I took the neck up about two inches. 

If I were to make this pattern again (maybe... but with sleeves for winter) I would also take a little of the taper from the hip to knee.  As Erica Bunker warned Alison, the results are very "body conscious".  I certainly don't want the answer to the proverbial "does my bum look big in this?" question.

Frocktober no. 2 is the Tracy Reece dress Vogue 1224 in black and white jersey.  It is coming along nicely.  I can see that I need to seriously work on my blog photos.  My daughter takes them and the attitude is no care, no responsibility.  DD 1 who is away at university was much more accommodating.

At home with Julia

Sadly only my Aussie readers will get the joke about Julia our much maligned Prime Minister, Julia Gillard who has a perchant for while jackets with deep necklines.

The white jacket Butterick 5619 is my latest from my long spring/summer sewing list to be completed. I made it for the Jewish New Year as it is a Rosh Hashanah custom to wear white garments. The color white symbolizes purity and renewal and on Rosh Hashanah, we wish to make a fresh start and renew ourselves for the new year.

The jacket is unlined and I've used Hong Kong seam bindings and French seams on the sleelves.  The jacket is a great fit, but I'm not sure the flying saucer neckline is for me.  The lapels are so big that a gust of wind fly the tip of the lapel into my red lipstick.  I'll use the pattern again, but will change it to a more conventional neckline.  

The fabric for my jacket came from the Tessuti's roll sale. I shared a $10 roll with another buyer - there was just over 4 meters on the roll.  Not the greatest quality as it has a lot of spandex in the weave, but great for testing ideas.

 I've completed a new silk chiffon blouse Butterick 5561. I struggled with this garment as the pieces didn't seem to fit together in the way they were intended.  I found the pleat in the bottom of the sleeve made the sleeves tight and puffy, so I removed it and re-cut to achieve a straight (straightish?) line.  Overall, not a winner, but pretty and wearable, especially under a jacket.

Next up - I had a cutting binge recently.  I cut my jacket, two Vogue knit dresses and two t-shirts.  I also have an unfinished faux suede leopard print trench jacket perilously close to finishing. I made great progress, then the weather warmed up and I lost motivation to complete. Now it is a little cooler the sewing room poltergiest has stolen the upper sleeve piece.  I have searched everywhere.  I have contacted the company I bought the fabric from.  They have none left!! My solution - I think - will be to cut the upper sleeve from an old black sweater and add a matching sweater trim somewhere else on the garment. 

I am also very happy to announce that I was lucky enough to win Becky at Sew and So's fantastically generous gift voucher give away.  Becky makes lovely garments and is a great refashioner.

Finally, to my fellow Jewish sewers (are there any out there?) Le Shana Tova and to the rest of my friends happy sewing.  May this year be a sweet one.

Band wagoning

We've been a little late to jump onto the Vogue 1250 bandwagon down- under.  Now that Spring is here I'm keen to wear more dresses and man this is an easy dress to piece together.  I whipped this up in two hours from cutting board to hand finished hemline, just in time for my friend's 50th birthday party.  The fabric is a butter soft gold and black knit jersey from Tessuti.  I love it with my orange cardigan (the best mistake I ever made) and boots and can't wait to shed the outer layer and show my pedicured toes again!

My spring/summer sewing list is long and I have a stash in serious need of busting.  I've set out some of the priorities:

• 5 blouses for work (white, black & pale pink polka dots, gold silk, printed chiffons)
• 5 weekend t-shirts that can be dressed up (striped, red, fine striped, black, blue)
• 3 tunics/casual chic wear (from the linen stash)
• Dresses - I have 8 patterns (mostly DKNY and Tracy Reese) that I would like to make in no particular order.   
• A maxi dress (Simplicity 3503)
• New white pants
• A ball gown (I have a big event in mid-November thinking Alessandra Rich simple lines with contrasting lace)
• 3 lightweight summer jackets or suits

Now you can see why I don't make lists!

Tangerine dreams

 Colour blocking is everywhere this season and I love it.  Perhaps I'm taking the idea too far with my double helping of burnt orange?  For the skirt I've used Simplicity 2475, a favourite pattern of mine.  The detail isn't evident in the photo, but my version has false pocket flaps with buttons to match the cardigan and belt carriers. The fabric is Italian ponte bought at Tessutis a while back, not quite as bright as it appears in photo.   Unfortunately it is no longer in stock or I'd be back for more to make a suit jacket.  I've had to satisfy myself with a soft knit in burnt orange merino wool knit.  This garment actually started out as my self drafted basic tshirt. Sadly, the merino is very fine and rather clingy.  So I bought another metre, drew a line up the middle and added the button panels. It was a happy mistake I think.  Eventually I'll make up a cowl neck singlet with the remaining fabric to brighten up some of my blacks and greys.

I was planning to show you my grey trousers (Simplicity 2700), but I have to tell these pants are a victim of my own stupidity!  They were always a test garment made from $2 a metre fabric but I have rendered them an unwearable muslin by the trimming the zip with the excess fabric around the fly. A definite no no as the zip has frayed into obvilion. The zip is sorry saga beginning with pattern notions calling for an 18cm zip (7 inch) when a 7 cm zip is required.  Having discovered this after shop hours, I grabbed a recycled zip in the wrong colour.  Another big mistake as a highly contrasting zip will show even under a fly front!!  Oh well, at least I have worked through the fitting issues.

Not sure what to sew next.  I have two more winter garments cut but now the weather is warming up, I'm in the mood for dresses.

Little red dress success

Ok, this was an act of major motherly love, but I'm more than happy with the results.  We used Burda 03/11 108 with the sleeves from 107.  Both these patterns were part of a bridal theme.  As you can see they lend themselves nicely to a party dress.  I cut the smallest size, made up the front and back of dress then awaited the arrival of my dd from Melbourne to fit the side seams.  I had to take it in about 7 cms on each side at the waist to make it fit properly. Surprisingly though the dart placement was exactly right!  I also took multiple centimetres from the sleeves and hemline. My dd is a thumbalina!

The bodice is lined with red poly lining. It is machine sewn around the neckline and through the centre back. I handstitched the lining in at the side seams and around the sleeves. The hems on the sleeves and at hemline are finished with cotton bias binding.  All very neat, but no photos as DD was rushing off for a 'pre' before the party.  Let's hope the 'apres' is not too devastating!  PS she is not wearing this peep-show bra. PPS she loves me, she really really love me...and the dress of course.

In the meanwhile, I've started a new job in the city, have cut five new pieces for me and completed the boring grey pants except for two button holes.  They fit well but the fabric is cheap and they are no more than a wearable proto-type.  More photos to come.

Daughter loving

Email from my daughter - 960 kilometres away

"could you make this for me for next saturday night in a bright red fabric, perhaps jersey?


i saw it in zara and when i went back it was gone...

it had three quarter length sleeves in the shop, this was the closest thing i could find to it.

if you cant thats ok, i know your starting your job next week."

Now I just happen to have a piece of fire engine red synthetic in my stash that I was wondering what on earth I'd do with it and why I had it.

I also found just the pattern in my Burda mags. Snip, snip ...watch this space.

No boring business

 

Heading into the city for winter meetings, I am struck by how much black and grey Sydney women wear.  Not just black and grey, but boring black and grey, basic jackets, trousers or skirts teemed with equally boring pinstriped or white blouses.  Young attractive women looking as inspiring as Mao Tse Tung's Red Brigade revolutionaries.  So I'm leading a revolution of my own - the No Boring Business Wear revolt.

This jacket in vintage green and white cotton knit is my first assault on top end of town conservatism.  The wool khaki trim from Tessuti reminds me of my militancy and the buttons, also from Tessuti show that there is no need to sacrifice elegance in pursuit of the cause.  I love the results, its a little bit Armani and a little bit Chanel, but not slavishly copying either.  It is also very comfortable to wear, thanks to my Sewing Guild buddy Sharon who suggested cutting the acetate sleeve lining on the bias so it moves in the same way as the knit.  This wasn't necessary for the body of the garment which I gave more body with fusible interfacing. 

Practiced my bound buttonholes and top stitch free pockets (used in my husband's jacket). I also developed a new method for sewing pocket flaps without bulk or top stitching.  Sew binding onto the top of the right side of the flap and handstitch all edges.  Turn over and press, the handstitch in place.  The result is very neat and provides a couture finish on the outside of the garment.  I ran out of binding to go around the sleeves - what do you think? To bind or not to bind?

 

Next up...I'm whispering now....boring grey flannel pants (Simplicity 2700).  But fear not, I plan to team it with a camel cashmere trench jacket (Burda 4/2008 107 - with long sleeves), gold silk blouse (Burda Style 4/2011 113) and my new Midas brogues that insisted on following me out of the store.

Now ladies, what are you stitching for the revolution?  Vive la revolution de la couleur!