Daughter loving

Email from my daughter - 960 kilometres away

"could you make this for me for next saturday night in a bright red fabric, perhaps jersey?


i saw it in zara and when i went back it was gone...

it had three quarter length sleeves in the shop, this was the closest thing i could find to it.

if you cant thats ok, i know your starting your job next week."

Now I just happen to have a piece of fire engine red synthetic in my stash that I was wondering what on earth I'd do with it and why I had it.

I also found just the pattern in my Burda mags. Snip, snip ...watch this space.

No boring business

 

Heading into the city for winter meetings, I am struck by how much black and grey Sydney women wear.  Not just black and grey, but boring black and grey, basic jackets, trousers or skirts teemed with equally boring pinstriped or white blouses.  Young attractive women looking as inspiring as Mao Tse Tung's Red Brigade revolutionaries.  So I'm leading a revolution of my own - the No Boring Business Wear revolt.

This jacket in vintage green and white cotton knit is my first assault on top end of town conservatism.  The wool khaki trim from Tessuti reminds me of my militancy and the buttons, also from Tessuti show that there is no need to sacrifice elegance in pursuit of the cause.  I love the results, its a little bit Armani and a little bit Chanel, but not slavishly copying either.  It is also very comfortable to wear, thanks to my Sewing Guild buddy Sharon who suggested cutting the acetate sleeve lining on the bias so it moves in the same way as the knit.  This wasn't necessary for the body of the garment which I gave more body with fusible interfacing. 

Practiced my bound buttonholes and top stitch free pockets (used in my husband's jacket). I also developed a new method for sewing pocket flaps without bulk or top stitching.  Sew binding onto the top of the right side of the flap and handstitch all edges.  Turn over and press, the handstitch in place.  The result is very neat and provides a couture finish on the outside of the garment.  I ran out of binding to go around the sleeves - what do you think? To bind or not to bind?

 

Next up...I'm whispering now....boring grey flannel pants (Simplicity 2700).  But fear not, I plan to team it with a camel cashmere trench jacket (Burda 4/2008 107 - with long sleeves), gold silk blouse (Burda Style 4/2011 113) and my new Midas brogues that insisted on following me out of the store.

Now ladies, what are you stitching for the revolution?  Vive la revolution de la couleur!

Grey for a grey day

 

Mental note, smile in all future photos and never allow your daughter to take a photo with camera held at waist level. It makes you look twice your real size!  But guys it's cold, wet and misable here in Sydney.  Time to bring out my new skirt made with a remnant piece of grey and black leopard print ponte from my stash.  I made another skirt using this fabric that I have worn to death, blogged about here. I used Vogue 8603 again, this time including the gathers front and back.  It is lined with red synthetic lining however after a day in the city I've decided to remove it as is doesn't move with the garment.  The fabric is quite thick so doesn't really need a lining.  Think I'll take the opportunity to shorten it as well.  The coat is also self-made and well worn from last winter.  I blogged about it here.
I am making a very interesting jacket at the moment which I hope to finish on the weekend.

Nice outfit, bad photo

Husbie arrived just as I was about to leave so I asked for a photo.  Four shots later, this is the best of breed.  Next up another version of Vogue 8603 in grey and black leopard print ponte and a vintage style jacket in green and white crinoline.  No they are not a set! 

Simply stylish ...in my opinion

 

 In the absence of the household photographers I'm adding a quick shot of my lastest project Butterick 5472.  This a very easy pattern that hasn't received enough attention in blogland.  Firstly, it is great to have a cowl neck pull on dress that can be made in a woven fabric.  The front is cut on the bias.  I've used a satin faille from Tessuti.  The jacket is made from a beautiful soft jersey also from Tessuti.  My only suggestion is if you use a knit for the jacket, don't use woven lining (the back is lined with lining, the front pieces are self-lined making it a fabric hungry pattern). It hangs and moves differently.  My only other suggestion is that the pockets would benefit from interfacing - they droop a little too much in the knit fabric.

Wearing it with boots to the theatre tonight - Sydney Theatre Company's production de jour - The White Guard with Miranda Otto.  Also thoroughly recommend Terminus by Ireland's Abby Theatre Company to my fellow Sydney-siders.

More corporate wardrobe builders on the way.

Mission Accomplished!

 

The coat had its first outing tonight and I think it has just the right feel - casual rumpled intellectual.  We still need to work on the modelling and the shirt is looking a bit tired.  He likes the coat and conceded that I'd done a good job.  But he's not so keen on the khaki.  Can't get past the military thing and the fact that it is the same colour as my daughter's school blazer.   There are a few little things that I think could be improved, but overall I'm proud of it.

I have recently acquired some OOP men's patterns in my armoury, Burda 6111(parka), McCalls 8409 (shirts) Vogue 8043 (trousers) and McCalls 3363 (pullovers and zip jackets), so expect further forays into menswear. 

 

Next up I'm working on Butterick 5472 for me.  My mission - should I choose to accept it - Tessuti's sale is on after all - is to make up the dress, top, jacket and pants as a coordinated set using only fabrics from my stash.  Certainly worth a try.

Victory by stealth - Mission underway

The man jacket is coming along nicely, after a wet long weekend in Sydney.  So far, so good.  I did make one fundamental mistake, but not a fatal one.  When I adjusted for a large chest, I forgot to move the dart over by about 2 cms. Not that noticable, just annoying. 

The other minor annoyance is that the my pad stitching doesn't exactly match the turn of the collar.  I had to guess it as it is not marked on the pattern.  I'm sure it would be there on a classically tailored jacket pattern.  No matter. 

Making a man jacket is a great way to explore new sewing techniques.  I've been guided by a great book Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket.  The illustrations and explanations in the book are so clear.   I managed half-way decent bound buttonholes and a bound wallet pocket in the lining.

I also owe the pocket technique to my friend Diana in Canada who posted a great method for adding pockets without top-stitching.  So good I've added a few pictures to explain.  Step 1: attach the lining in the pocket placement position, leaving the top seam allowance open. Step 2: press the seam allowance upward into the pocket. Step 3: attach the right side of the fabric pocket to the lining.  Step 4: pin the pocket in place and hand-stitch in place. 

Overall, I'm happy with my progress. All that is left to be done is to piece together and insert the lining and sew on the buttons. Snappo!  I think my Mojo is back!