Chanel progress before the darling buds of Spring overtake me...

Romantic title. Well yes, a title to match my romantic notion that I could create the perfect faux Chanel jacket!

While I am not entirely displeased with the results, my jacket is far from perfect. The outside binding and pocket welts are still pinned in place and will be handstitched in place tonight. I have not yet cut the sleeves as I wanted to match up the horizontal stripes correctly. The sleeves and sleeve linings will be inserted by hand.

My favourite things about the jacket are the black boucle trim and the lovingly handstitched lining which gives a soft luxurious feel. It is rather heavy - Sydney winters are not particularly cold - there maybe only 10 days a year I could wear it!


One of the major difficulties I've had making the jacket is the fabric - which is a very loose weave wool acrylic mix that literally unravels under your finger tips. I had to add about 3 inches to the seam allowances to accommodate fraying, trimming them back just before joining the quilted seams together. Next time I will use a good quality wool. Unfortunately I did not have enough of this Japanese silk to line the sleeves. A plain lining in very pale grey satin will have to do.

This long cardigan coat also was completed and worn several times since my last post. It is self drafted except for the pleated sleeves from are from a woven jacket BWOF 11/08. I love this coat, worn over dresses. It is made from beautiful Mela Purdie double layer crushed jersey. The sleeve cuffs and pocket trim were cut off a moth eaten jumper that belonged to one the girls.

I'm also fond of the faux leather buttons that look rather like raffia place mats. I wanted to post a photo of me wearing it, but mini-me always has better things to do. Note...learn to use the self-timer!


Next up. Mini-me (who is now taller than me when I wear heels) has been invited to a Year 10 Formal at a boys school. This is the Aussie equivalent of a Junior Prom. I have drafted a pattern for a short dress with low cowl back, draped cross-over front and short gathered skirt. The test fit for the bodice fitted well, so we are fabric hunting on the weekend. Her dream is navy blue or steel grey silk, but dreams can change can't they? I have the whole of August to finish it.

Still dreaming of Spring

This is my second dreaming of Spring, chanelling Leona dress for a weekend in Melbourne that is coming up. I'm attending a Bat Mitzvah, so need outfits for the Synagogue and the party. Two dinner parties over the weekend to cover as well.

Now I know that I have plenty of things on the hanger that would suit, but I'm attracted to the idea of a totally self sewn weekend.

This dress is made from black Mela Purdie jersey from my stash and a vibrant jersey print bought at the Tessuti sale. I love how vibrant the print is without being over the top. The pattern is a combination of my self-drafted plain tee-shirt cut to midriff length and the skirt from my previous dress, narrowed to allow for less fabric width. I added black satin piping to the front, and faux pockets with self covered buttons using the orange colour from the print.

Next up I'm making a long black buttoned cardigan from a quilted Mela Purdie black jersey. I'm drafting the pattern from a store-bought long cardigan in a sheer fabric. I wear this to death in Spring/early Summer and have always wanted a heavier version for the cooler months.

If I have time I'll finish some silk trousers I started making last year and a tunic blouse to match for the party. If not, I'm sure there is something to wear in my overflowing closet.

Perhaps I should finish my Chanel jacket?!!

Dreaming of spring dress and Chanel progress

I am almost as passionate about
Simplicity 2614 as I am about this fabric bought at the Tessutis sale. It is such a versatile pattern. This dress is a modified version of the pattern including a self drafted flounce collar. To create the line for the dress I simply added the pattern piece for the skirt at the waistline mark on the blouse pattern. It works like a treat.

My dress is not copy but does pay homage to the Queen of the jersey frock, Australian designer Leona Edmiston. I made it to wear to a party in Melbourne - good thinking 99 - Melbourne is even colder than Sydney at the moment. It does look nice under my red wool overcoat!

I quite proud of what I achieved in terms of pattern matching. It took over an hour to lay out and cut. The picture below shows a centre front seam that is barely visible. I'm particularly grateful to the lovely assistant at Tessutis who persuaded me to buy more fabric than I originally intended. I needed every bit. Tessutis have a huge sale on so I came away with 6 metres of jersey and silk 30% off the original price.

I am still making slow progress on my Chanel style jacket. I've included a sneak preview shot of my first ever welt pocket which I'm trimming with a spidery black trim bought at the Dongdaemun fabric market in Korea. The black boucle self covered buttons have been rescued from a hideous pink and purple jacket found in the thrift shop. I've also completed quilting the back of the jacket. I'm seeing the jacket more as a hobby project to fit in around other projects that provide more instant gratification.

I've been tagged too

Judy over at Just Sew Everything tagged me. I've enjoyed reading other bloggers responses so I thought that I would have a go.

Which pattern/vintage style have you been thinking about lately?
A few actually. In moments of weakness I’ve bought vintage patterns on Ebay and I also have a few in my stash that have matured into vintage items through years of idleness. Three I want to highlight are Vogue 1688 a Vogue Couturier Design by Pucci from the 1960s. I’m not sure about the ensemble, but I definitely will make the coat in jersey ponte. I’ve found the right aubergine, now looking for a paler contrast. I’ll do the dress in summer with a Japanese cotton floral center and the rest in black. Next one of my mature patterns, Vogue 2176 wardrobe. I found some wild animal print velvetine in the stash that was bought to make a jacket and skirt for Rachel when she was nine. Am I brave enough to wear a long coat in animal print with a plain black dress under. Still mulling that one over in my mind. The skirt is the perfect partner for a secret project soon to emerge from my blog. Finally, a recent ebay purchase Butterick 3893. Originally, I thought it might be suitable for the leopard print, but I have some other ideas for that cloth now.
What's the one place you want to visit that you've never been to before?
One place? Come off it, I’m a traveller with big dreams and a half empty wallet. My next dream holiday is Spain, Portugal and Morocco. I also have retirement plans, a round trip from Greece through Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Egypt and back to Greece. A spell in the Greek islands would be civilised. I’m also up for a road trip around America visiting my blogging friends. I’ve got a friend in Chicago who is documentary film maker. Great concept just need a financer.
How do you relax?
Sewing is definitely part of my down time. I also read, go the theatre, and walk my dog. I’m blessed to live in one of the world’s most beautiful cities and have special places here – Balmoral Beach, Waverton Reserve and Centennial Park. I love dining at home or outdoors with friends – especially with a few bottles of good Australian chardonnay or shiraz.
What is your favourite holiday?
The best holiday I ever had I took on my own. My daughter was on an exchange scholarship to a private girl’s school on the Upper East Side of New York. I had eight glorious days in New York visiting. My days I had to myself, wandering wherever I wanted, seeing all the galleries and shops I wanted at my own pace. By night, I teamed up with my daughter, met her friends and her friends’ parents. We went to Broadway shows, ate in great restaurants and in some pretty swanky private homes. Perfect.
What is one sewing skill you want to learn/try out?
I am working on a new Chanel jacket using couture techniques. I’m learning quilted lining, and welt pockets and couture button holes. We had a workshop on the weekend at the sewing guild that helped a lot
Can you knit? Crochet? Other crafting talents?
I don’t knit or crochet. I do embroider. My proudest embroidery achievements were my daughter’s tallits (prayer shawls) made for their Bat Mitzvahs. I don’t have photographs of the younger daughter’s one which uses appliqué techniques. I’d love to try fabric art, but while the inclination is strong, I definitely don’t have time.
What garment/accessory do you wear the most?
My black ponte skirt - I've literally worn it out. My favourite accessories are a silver pendant I bought in Jordan, my collection of pashmina scarves (It’s been cold). I’m also fond of some red wooden beads on leather made by Elk.
How much time do you spend reading blogs? (Per day or per week?)
Too much. I follow too many sewer and don’t have the heart to unfollow anyone.
Your motto/mantra?
What the human mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve.
I’m also quite fond of “Life is too short to be idle”, but both husbie and the DD’s tell me that I sound totally manic when I say it.

I think at this point I’m meant to tag others. Like Judy, a lot of the sewers I admire have already been tagged or are always chosen. So I’m choose
j.kaori designs Who sews the most incredible, unique garments with style and finesse
Jorth A fellow Aussie sewer from the other end of this wide brown land who deserves more attention than she gets, and
Miss Muslin An Aussie of style who went to the US to beat the Yanks at their own game. She says it was for love, but we know!
Sadly, I’m all out of blogging time.

Who is Sailor Moon?

This is Sailor Moon and I've got to confess that DD paid me a back handed complement. I wish I really did look like Sailor Moon..not the outfit..just like I worked out at the same gym!

For the record it was my 14 year DD who made the comparison. She hasn't watched Sailor Moon since she was little. My older DD, the one with taste and tact, is still studying in Jerusalem. I'll have her back in January to pass judgement on my summer wardrobe..

I propose to work on something more challenging when I finish DD junior's second pair of 'trackie daks' - Aussie for yoga pants using BWOF 11/08 126.

Chanelling Coco or Sailor Moon?

We had a long weekend for the Queens Birthday (absurd yes, she is the Queen of England and it is not even her real birthday!) but I didn't do much sewing. My DD went away with friends for the weekend so husbie expected some attention. We had a great time. Highlights were seeing the new Australian film Animal Kingdom, one of the few truly great Aussie films by a first time director and starring some of our finest actors. No Nicole Kidman wasn't in it (that's why it was so good!) and seeing the dishy Australian actor singing the songs of Jacque Brel at the Basement. It was funny returning to the Basement, which was a hang of ours in our beatnik days of the late 70s. It looked like the same crowd there, but their goatees had gone grey. The bar stools didn't feel as comfortable either. Couldn't be possible!

Anyway, all things Francophone made we think up another jolie Jalie project. I used a metre of red and white striped rugby knit that I originally bought at Tessutis to make a pair of rompers for my eldest daughter. This child is now 18, so that is serious stash busting! I added some white merino jersey scraps for the ties and a cuffed sleeve.

I thought it all looked great, until DD came home. "You look like Sailor Moon" she wailed. Oh well, at least I match my doggie Alfie.

Quebec's revenge

Picture the scene. At Jalie headquarters Montreal the head of design is briefing the pattern makers. "We av to come up with a shirt pattern zat will baffle ze English but for the smart ones that can follow our instructions will dazzle them with Francophone ingenuity and our superior pattern making".

One of the pattern makers has a moment of deep inspiration. "Mais oui I av it!" she says "We will create a collar that one must roll the entire garment through. Ze finish will be magnifique, but the making will be a challenge."

Well as you can see from this poor attempt at humour, I was challenged by Jalie 2921. I sat for an hour reading the instructions thinking that I must have misinterpreted the text and drawings. But no, you do indeed roll the garment through the stitched collar, creating a very clean line and no raw edges.

I'm very happy with the result and fit. I used a very drapey wool blend knit. My only complaint is that my tie hangs lower than on the pattern illustrations. I suspect this is a combination of not being generous enough with the seam allowances and the loose weave dragging it downward. I will definitely make another soon.