I'm going to give you three reasons why I love the Sutton blouse by True Bias.
One - the pattern is well put together with good instructions that provide a garment that is quick to put together and looks almost as good inside out.
Two - the front is slighter narrower than the back which creates shape and allows the fabric to drape well. The longer back is also great cover. And three - the design is economical and uses less than a metre of 150mm fabric. Great scrap buster too if you are working with contrasting fabrics.
I've used printed crepe purchased in Portugal last year and some black crepe from stash. I made it up in size 12 without any alterations. The only change I'll make when (note I didn't say if) I run up another is to use bias tape for the arm hem. This is simply to reduce bulk from the French seams.
Not sure what I'm making next, so meanwhile happy sewing!
Thanks for all your comments welcoming the prodigal sewer back into your midst. I value your encouragement.
I'm surprised Vogue 1351 has been overlooked by sewers. What's not to like about it? It is easy to fit, falls nicely on the body and the construction techniques are excellent.
I've posted a photo of the inside of the cowl neckline, which is machine sewn into lining. This is much better than a facing which can flap up when you least expect it.
I understand why the DKNY team made the dress in a block colour. The entire garment, except the upper back is cut on the bias, and finding fabric that works on the diagonal can be quite a challenge. In the end I choose a silk twill purchased in Rome a few years ago. I just love the result and am sure it will be a high rotation frock for summer.
One of my goals for 2016 is to make time to post my finished work, so here is the first of many (I hope!). I've been absent from the blogosphere for so long I'm not sure if anyone is still following.
My first garment of 2016 is exactly what I needed - walking the dog weekend wear- but it is not a favourite. The fabric is fabulous navy and white Japanese (?) linen purchased at my spiritual home Tessuti Fabrics.
Unfortunately Rachel Coomey's design (Vogue 1247 OOP) doesn't exactly thrill me.
My point of comparison is the Sutton Blouse by True Bias. Kelly's pattern is beautifully put together and the cut is more flattering falling softly against the body. Will post wearing photos and more details shortly.
I've had a great start to 2016 with two other completed projects to show you. My new dress is being worn tomorrow, I guess you'll see that next.
Don't be strangers - stop by my blog and say hello!
Anita at Studio Faro is working to expand her range of patterns. I was thrilled to test her dinner shirt pattern which I started back in July before I went overseas.
I'm ashamed to say this sat finished but without buttonholes for nearly a month. Last night I dragged myself to the machine and did the deed.
Anita's pattern isn't available on her website yet, but look out for it. She describes it as a "production-ready women's shirt pattern in nine sizes 6-22". The instructions and seam allowances are geared to commercial construction, but not beyond the home sewer.
My vintage John Kaldor fabric worked really well with the pattern but tends to hard the design lines. This traditional tailored shirt features a dinner shirt bib panel with princess seams, double layer back yoke and full gathered sleeves with continuous placket.
I made a size 12 with adjustments only to the length which is suited to someone around 5 ft 7 in. Next time I make this shirt - and there will be a next time - I'll add about a cm to the bust for wearing ease, but otherwise I'm very happy with the fit and practicality of the design. I'll also make more of a feature of the bib, perhaps with pleating or fabric variation.
I've finished a few other garments so will make the effort to post. Love to hear your comments, meanwhile happy sewing!
Couldn't let lack of a willing photographer get in the way of showing off my latest business wear. It's all a little bit sparkly with a subtle metallic back thread.
I love the 70's vibe of the jacket. It is begging for a button down A-line skirt, but for the time being I've teamed it with a flip skirt, Burda September 2014, no.104.
The pattern for the jacket is from January 2008 Burda magazine (no.117). The details are great, especially the extra large cuffs with an extra decorative band. The leather trim was the result a "happy accident". I cut the garment and forgot to trace the collar stand. There wasn't enough of the brocade left to cut the piece. The Fabric Store had run out of the original fabric but did have an unusually small skin of soft lambskin in the perfect collar. My old friend Mick from Mick's Buttonholes at Alexandria did the studs. May he never shut his doors!
I've also completed two blouses and a striped skirt since my last post. I've been promoted recently and I'm spending more of my free time sewing than my blogging about it. Not sure what is coming up next, so until my next catch up happy sewing!
Emerald green has been described as the most magical, refined and elegant shade in the color wheel.
I'm not sure I'd go that far in praise of the colour, but it does look amazing with so many other colours and suits every shade of skin and hair. I bought 2 metres of this rich emerald/teal green ponte from Tessuti in 2013 when emerald was the major Spring colour trend. The black ponte is also from Tessuti - a more recent purchase.
I missed the boat for being exactly on trend, pondering over loads of ideas for this piece of cloth over the years. But the colour hasn't exactly gone away. I must confess that the end product is the outcome of pattern laziness. Rather than trying to fit something new I reworked a recently made dress pattern Burda 10/2014 101 coupled with my standard simple ponte pencil skirt. These skirts are becoming staples in my business wardrobe. I'm loving the A-Grade comfort and pop of colour they add.
My black ponte skirt works just as well under the peplum top. Overall, I'm very happy with the outfit and feel that it is more versatile than the dress. Pop by and let me know what you think.
Meanwhile happy sewing!
My absence from Blogland has been conspicuous (to me at any rate). I've spent the last few months preparing to go away, going away and coming back again to a mountain of work!
While ostensibly it was a business trip, with the opportunity to speak at conferences, work with colleagues in London and have a brief holiday in Portugal, I did spend a lot of time talking and thinking about sewing.
The outfit photographed was self made for travel. A self drafted black ponte pencil skirt, a Rigel bomber jacket made from a fabulous linen synthetic blend that doesn't crush and doesn't need ironing, and a black jersey cowl neck t-shirt. I love this outfit and wish I had a photo that showed more garment and less of the Savoy.
I travelled to Paris for weekend (as you do!) and found stunning antique buttons at the Marché aux puces de la Porte de Vanves on the outskirts of central Paris. I bought four lots for 20 euros and much haggling. There is lace to be found at this flea market but the quality is variable. Expect to pay for the good stuff. I also went to my favourite fabric stores on Montmartre and was slightly disappointed. But I did find 3 metres of interesting cotton blend for 10 euros. And am kicking myself for not buying the 3 metre 'coupon' of burnt orange faux leather indistinguishable from real leather. I was worried about excess baggage.
Back in London I met up with the lovely Kate from Fabrikated. We shared dinner at her house and I felt privileged to see her hand made clothes, sewing area, cloth stash. Kate is wonderfully creative and has been dabbling in fabric printing and painting. She is also a skilled pattern-maker and was finishing an amazing cotton maxi at the time of my visit.
Another trip highlight was meeting Tany from Tricot et Couture. Tany is utterly charming and amazingly generous and talented. We spent time touring her home town in Portugal with her husband and son. We clicked and talked about all sorts of things, including cloth...how could we not? Seeing her work close up was really very special. Tany led me to her favourite fabric store Feira dos Tecidos which has branches all over Portugal. A sample of my purchases is pictured below.
Tany also directed me to a very special supplier of trims and buttons. I bought buttons for a Chanel jacket and the red and black braids on the counter.
I've just finished my first garment since my return, a tuxedo shirt which I'm pattern testing for my friend Anita McAdam at Studio Faro. I have hundreds of buttons, but do you think I have 8 small black shirt buttons? Fraid not!
I promise not to be a stranger again. Please pop by and say hello.
I've used printed crepe purchased in Portugal last year and some black crepe from stash. I made it up in size 12 without any alterations. The only change I'll make when (note I didn't say if) I run up another is to use bias tape for the arm hem. This is simply to reduce bulk from the French seams. 
