The man jacket is coming along nicely, after a wet long weekend in Sydney. So far, so good. I did make one fundamental mistake, but not a fatal one. When I adjusted for a large chest, I forgot to move the dart over by about 2 cms. Not that noticable, just annoying.
The other minor annoyance is that the my pad stitching doesn't exactly match the turn of the collar. I had to guess it as it is not marked on the pattern. I'm sure it would be there on a classically tailored jacket pattern. No matter.
Making a man jacket is a great way to explore new sewing techniques. I've been guided by a great book Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket. The illustrations and explanations in the book are so clear. I managed half-way decent bound buttonholes and a bound wallet pocket in the lining.
I also owe the pocket technique to my friend Diana in Canada who posted a great method for adding pockets without top-stitching. So good I've added a few pictures to explain. Step 1: attach the lining in the pocket placement position, leaving the top seam allowance open. Step 2: press the seam allowance upward into the pocket. Step 3: attach the right side of the fabric pocket to the lining. Step 4: pin the pocket in place and hand-stitch in place.Overall, I'm happy with my progress. All that is left to be done is to piece together and insert the lining and sew on the buttons. Snappo! I think my Mojo is back!