I have to admit to an obsession with making the perfect jacket lately. Since my last post I've completed an unlined Style Arc Cindy jeans jacket in a stretch woven, have another plaid and faux leather combination finished awaiting closures and am now working on the scaffolding for a traditionally tailored navy blue wool blazer.
So first lets talk about the Cindy, a slim fitted jean style jacket that lends itself to more sophistocated styling. The design lines, with extensive shaping in the centre front panels and princess seams really enhance the fit. I made a size 12 and only adjusted the sleeves - my usual widening and shortening. I also decided to sew the upper pocket flap into the front yoke seam as it didn't make sense to stitch down above the seam line and used a self yoke at the back rather than a facing. The latter alteration proved to be quite tricky and not recommended if working with difficult fabric. Mine definitely fell into this category - fraying a lot and somewhat resistent to pressing. I'll definitely make another jacket like this. I saw a fantastic version using contrasting fabrics on Pattern Review that really has me thinking. One of the other things I love about the pattern is the way it showcases great buttons. Do you like these fantastic decahedron shaped buttons by Marc Jacobs that I found in a jar at the Fabric Store in Sydney? I have made several flawed attempts at a wearing photo, but black fabric against Sydney's winter grey sky doesn't make for good photography.
Hand-sewing has always been my drug of choice, so as you might imagine, I'm addicted! Hope to show you more soon. Meanwhile, happy sewing!
I made a coat using Smith's techniques. I didn't want it to be that structured so I used her hybrid method. It worked really well for my fabric. This looks like it's going to be a wonderful jacket that lasts forever. I have hand pad stitched a couple of jackets and I found it very soothing as well. I make my own shoulder pads and I use a variant to hold the layers together. Even if you don't want to make an entire hand tailored jacket these techniques can be useful in other ways.
ReplyDeleteThanks Nancy. I've just posted more recent progress. Labour of love is an understatement!
DeleteGreat work on those jackets. Jackets are something that I am not comfortable sewing...my daughter and I have been watching the Great British Sewing Bee and thinking that I could cope with all the challenges so far, but that a jacket would be my undoing!
ReplyDeleteThe design lines on that StyleArc jacket are really interesting, and yes, I do love those buttons. I am hoping to get to the Fabric Store in Brisbane when I take my kids there for sports workshops next week.
Love, love, love the black jacket.
ReplyDeleteHaven't made a "real" tailored jacket in years - you've inspired me to at least start thinking in that direction. I love to sew by hand - I find it very restful.
Well done on all the jackets. I have to be in the right frame of mind for such precision sewing.
ReplyDeleteWonderful jackets. I agree with you on the clear style of Alison Smith's teaching. I haven't done the traditional padstitching in a while but it's a wonderful technique for a such a classic jacket.
ReplyDeleteRe the photos: isn't it irritating that photo's sometimes seem to show things that aren't really there in real life.
Your Cindy jacket looks amazing and even better in real life. Your tailored jacket is going to be so well crafted, enjoy the process.
ReplyDeleteAll of that work will pay off.
ReplyDeleteGreat looking jackets. You've almost convinced me to do some tailoring again.
ReplyDeleteSuch a beautiful jacket! I took all Alison Smith's tailoring classes on Craftsy, they are a great reference on traditional tailoring.
ReplyDeleteYour Cindy jacket looks terrific - I love the combination of the black fabric and those buttons, they take it a few steps away from your regular jeans jacket and a little closer to a military-style of jacket. And the tailoring on your work-in-progress blazer - wow! It looks like a lot of work but I am sure it's all going to contribute to a blazer that has excellent structure and longevity!
ReplyDeleteThe jacket looks like a labor of love. It will last forever, which after all that work is certainly a good perk. Are you going to put the lining in by hand?
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