Sunday, August 12, 2012

Slow sewing


Slow sewing, like slow cooking can yield great results.  And that's exactly what I've been up to...and I confess obsessive Olympic watching.  My camel cashmere coat is the first of the projects I've had on the simmer.  I wanted a soft cut jacket that could double for work or play.  I also wanted to use my remnant piece of camel cashmere bought a few years ago before the moths attacked it.

For this project I used Vogue 8756.   I don't recommend this pattern for anything heavier than a light knit, in fact I'm hesitant to recommend this pattern at all.  I cut a size 14 with a 3cm full bust adjustment.  Part of my slow sewing effort was to steam and mould the fabric into shape, starting with the shoulders which needed a shoulder pad and a bamboo sleeve head to look anything like the design drawing.  I chopped 5cms from each side of the drape collar piece to stop the jacket from looking too front heavy. After a lot of steaming, the folds sit quite nicely, much better than they appear in the photo.

The real winner is the fabric.  The fibres are long and soft, very luxurious to wear and a dream to sew.  The colour is camel not orange, much closer to the second photo.  My photographer, DD aged 16 and into special effects thought  "like it would look nicer and no I don't have time to another photo''.

My other slow burner is a red sheaf dress - my practice run for Susan Khalje's couture dress over at Craftsy.com.  I highly recommend this course, there are so many tips and techniques to take your sewing to new levels.  I've learned how to make a muslin correctly, how to apply organza underlining, hand picking zips and one little thing that I'll share - did you know that the top metal tab on your tape measure is equal to a standard seam allowance?  This fact is a prize for Burda magazine sewers.  The dress will stay simmering away while I catch up with the course video.

Meanwhile, I've cut a pair of plain black linen pants with a fly front.  Despite a cold, cold weekend, there is a whiff of Spring in the air.  I saw the first cherry blossoms yesterday.

Happy sewing!
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13 comments:

  1. Mariela AlethiaAugust 12, 2012 at 6:50 AM

    Slow sewing is much more effective and yields better fitting garment that marathon sewing.

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  2. AntoinetteAugust 12, 2012 at 6:52 AM

    Hey, thanks for recommending the Craftsy course. I've been toying with the idea of online classes and I've heard good things about a variety of courses. I have to make sure I have the discipline to follow along without someone look over my shoulder! Love the rich color of the jacket.

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  3. Lisette MAugust 12, 2012 at 7:42 AM

    Your jacket looks beautiful. I'm also enjoying Susan Kahlje's course very much, lots of great information.

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  4. BerniceAugust 12, 2012 at 2:02 PM

    You jacket is lovely. It looks so versatile. The fabric sounds simply divine and a joy to wear.

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  5. DillianderAugust 12, 2012 at 3:20 PM

    Another SK fan, her course is full of great tips although I haven't yet started on the dress. Enjoy the slow sewing, your jacket is lovely.

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  6. CarolynAugust 12, 2012 at 10:39 PM

    Your jacket looks terrific, and cashmere must feel perfectly divine against the skin.
    I think you are very wise to invest in slow sewing, the results will live in your wardrobe longer and be a pleasure each time you wear them.

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  7. CarolAugust 13, 2012 at 1:29 AM

    It really is lovely. I've never even been brave enough to buy a piece of cashmere, much less cut into it!

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  8. katherine hAugust 13, 2012 at 7:02 PM

    I was thinking "what a gorgeous splash of colour!"...but that is just special effects? Camel is a useful basic, and the cashmere will feel so cozy. that I'm sure you will wear this with everything!

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  9. memAugust 13, 2012 at 9:05 PM

    Hello I am making this jacket at the moment except that I am doing the sleevless vest . I agree that it has to have very drapey fabric. I have made mine out of a very fine woven wool about as heavey as a wool crepe.I have had in my cupboard for 15 years I have finished and have to press it . So far I dont mind it but I wouldnt wear it if I was short as it is rather "front heavey" I have C cup bust but am tall and also long waisted.DH who can be very "honest" at times says it looks fine . I want to wear it with a plain long line T and soft pants all in black . The vest is grass green and lined with black and white polka dots poly satin. I might even post it when I have finised the whole outfit.

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  10. BeckyAugust 14, 2012 at 5:23 AM

    The jacket looks lovely! And I am considering your advice to me about the Craftsy course. I must say, I really like their format way better than the Pattern Review classes, since I can take them at my own pace, and this year that pace has had to be painfully slow. My only hesitation is that I did already take Susan's PR class on sewing a couture LBD early last year, and I wonder how much the information would overlap. I did buy her "Bridal Couture" book on cd, though.

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  11. gwensewsAugust 14, 2012 at 4:45 PM

    I love the color of your jacket. Scrumptious! Good thing you were able to work out that pattern. Some patterns you just wonder if anyone actually tested them.

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  12. AudreyAugust 14, 2012 at 5:52 PM

    The jacket looks very nice on you. And I can imagine the cashmere was a dream to work with. I took the SK class and learned a lot.

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  13. SewingadictaAugust 27, 2012 at 7:08 AM

    Sewing slowly produces garments most elegant and exclusive, this is a pleasure too. Love your jacket!

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