Things are desperate when you resort to photographing yourself in the mirror! This is my test run of Burda 06/09 105, a pattern not for the faint hearted. I had so much trouble fitting this tshirt due to the mad instructions that I've written my own.
1. stitch darts into front bodice and bodice lining
2. fold pleats in place, baste and iron in place. If they will not hold in place, top-stitch in place (as per my illustration).
3. stitch front and back sleeves together and self line, stitching the two pieces together at the hem.
4. attach sleeves to front and back bodice
5. attach front lining to back facing and stitch to bodice and sleeves with right sides together.
6. attach waist band to peplum front and back
7. join pieces to bodice
8. stitch side seams from sleeves to peplum, ensuring that seams match at waist and peplum.
9. sew a lining for waist and peplum, joing side seams together.
10. stitch the lining to the hem of the peplum and handstitch in place at the top of the waist band.
I must confess that I didn't use this method. The instruction said to sew up the side seams before attaching the sleeves. This led to fit problems, endless unpicking of serged seams. I think the weight of the waistband and peplum is too light above the lined bodice, hence my suggestion to line it too. The sleeves should be lined because they are difficult to hem at the seam join.
In the end I have a top that I quite like, although this colour from my stash is way to bright for my taste. I want to make this top again in a less strident colour, if only to test my proposed method. If I could find black stretch lace with a scalloped edge I'd make it without lining the sleeves or peplum, but a full lining in the back.
Happy sewing...my black and white skirt is cut and ready to roll.